Summer in Perugia presents a dramatic question: where to get ice cream. This vital query is made all the more difficult by the fact that one can’t simply exclude the “bad” ice cream places…because there just don’t seem to be any. We can start out with Gambrinus in Via Bonazzi: it’s stuck back in that little alley but has nothing to hide, with large servings of rich gelato. Fontana Maggiore, back int he far corner of the main piazza, has Rino Pinguino, a mix of chocolate and vanilla with chocolate chunks, and, (get this!) free correzione panna (whipped cream on top). Grom, a national chain, has made a splash with lines every evening outside their store at the corner of Piazza Matteotti and Via Mazzini. Finally, Augusta Perusia in Via Pinturicchio (near the Stranieri) brings their chocolate-making experience to gelato making. It’s a hard life, but someone’s gotta eat it!